Wine of the week - Bramon Sauvignon Blanc MCC 2007

It's no secret that when I take a break from work (that's right, I do actually work) I like to head to The Garden Route. What is a secret though is a little wine farm about 10 minutes outside of Plett. It's called Bramon and makes MCC that I have been drinking fairly solidly for a while now. The chain of events (in a nutshell) goes like this:

1. About 18 months ago I propose to (then) The Princess. (now The Queen of course). 

2. About 8 months ago I spend a long day at Bramon Wine Estate drinking their MCC. 

3. I order waaaaaaaay too much of it for my wedding. 

4. About 6 months ago I get married. 

5. All the guests do their best to finish the bubbly at our wedding. 

6. They don't even get close. 

7. We wake up after the wedding with crates and crates of extra bubbly. 

8. We spend 6 months drinking it. 

It's been a pretty awesome 6 months. 

The MCC itself is unusually made from Sauvignon Blanc, which results in fresh, citrus on the nose and crisp green apples in the mouth. A hint of asparagus comes through nicely. The bubbles themselves are quite aggressive, and perhaps not as refined as some MCC, but I love it. I think it gives the glass some character and it also awakens the mouth. Gentle but authoritative at the same time. Does that make any sense? Like a slap you might give your lover on the bum? (you can see my extensive wine jargon coming through in that last sentence)

Anyway, the stuff is delicious and you would do well to get some. To find out where, check out their site on www.bramonwines.co.za and if ever you are in the area make sure to visit. Just be sure to place your order early on in the trip. Not like us. Unless you want to drink bubbly for 6 months. Well...now that I say it out loud...

Cheers,

Jamie Who

AmaZink Eatery - Sensational

When you're getting paid to eat out, and deadlines loom, the danger is that sometimes the pleasure of a restaurant experience is lost. It can become a job rather than a passion, as dishes and flavours blur into plates of "sameness". Having said all that, what it does mean is that when a restaurant or meal stands out from the masses it does so because it deserves to. It stands out because it is memorable and special. It is a defining food moment. One of these moments presented itself to me on Saturday. In the middle of a township. 

AmaZink Eatery is the brainchild of Bertus Basson, the man behind the fine-dining establishment, Overture. His new venture is poles apart and is a no-nonsense, no frills restaurant in Khayamandi. The decor is a collection of lively coloured wooden chairs and gorgeous painted tables. There is an amphitheater set up with a big screen for watching sport and an outside section where you can watch the goings on of a bustling township. The menu is scribbled on chalkboards in funky fonts and the meat you're about to eat displayed behind glass. Loyiso is the man in charge of a friendly, vibrant staff and he runs the show brilliantly.  

I sat down and skeptically ordered a glass of their house white. A pleasant surprise arrived in the form of a cold glass of Chenin Blanc from Ernst Gouws & Co. I asked our waitress about it and it turns out it has been created especially for AmaZink. Nice. To eat, I ordered a vegetable soup to start. It arrived with light, steaming-fresh vetkoek and was an enormous portion. The soup itself tasted like vegetables which already was a lot better than vegetable soups I have had in more expensive settings. With none of the meat being free-range, I asked Loyiso if I could taste some of his pap. What arrived was the biggest plate of food I have seen. Ever. Pumpkin fritters, potato wedges, chakka lakka, spinach, pap, sauce. Alright then. I ate until I couldn't actually face another bite, savouring every bit of food. This was proper food, cooked simply and with a distinct sweetness to the vegetables that is characteristic to the culture. The Queen had a perfectly cooked half Peri-Peri chicken, blackened by an open flame. The same vegetables were offered, this time with a generous combination of samp and beans. Again, brilliantly cooked. 

Other options for mains were pork, lamb, chicken, wors and even a platter for two combining everything! We couldn't face desserts but next time I reckon I'll just start with one of them. I already know the malva pudding will be the real deal. 

Next time you feel like doing something different, this place is worth a trip. Unfortunately I was driving, but the best way to enjoy this place would be to hire a shuttle, get 10 mates, do a bit of wine-touring and end here for lunch. That - my friends - would be the ultimate day. Who's keen? 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

P.S. Check out their website on http://www.amazink.co.za 

Cape Wine Braai Masters - South African to the core

Maybe it's the World Cup fever that has swept through South Africa in the last few weeks and months, but it's safe to say I have never felt prouder to be part of this country. I always considered myself to be patriotic, but things have been taken to a new level lately. Seeing foreigners openly perv our beautiful scenery, and hearing them rubbish reports they heard prior to arriving (about safety, lack of development, poor infrastructure etc) has been awesome. Our heritage has come to the fore but at the same time change is evident. Super 14 semi-finals and finals in Orlando? And then two weeks later Bafana Bafana playing at Loftus? Who would've thought it a few years back? 

I know I'm not the only one feeling this way. Flags and mirror socks are one thing, but you need only look at peoples' faces in the packed stadiums to know that we are all in the middle of something special. There is a swell of excitement and it's good to be part of it. 

So it is nothing short of genius that the Wines of South Africa (WOSA) - a non-profit organisation - have timed this general feeling of euphoria with the release of a cookbook which aims squarely at our heritage and the heart of what is truly South African. Yip, I'm talking about the braai. 

153 pages are dedicated to our beloved pastime, with areas of focus including such serious matters as:

• Braai grid preparation
• Making the fire. (This is especially technical and involves wood selection, lighting technique, stacking coals etc.) 
• Equipment necessary

The book takes readers on a journey through some of Cape Town's favourite wineries, with the owners and winemakers each sharing their interpretations of the perfect braai. Of course, wine features heavily and is paired with sensational recipes. Expect things like tea-smoked springbok salad, gemsbok fillet, seafood potjie, vegetables in phyllo pastry etc. 

The photography and styling of this book captures not only the food but also the joy of lighting up a braai with mates. It is a simple pleasure, but one that speaks loudly to us. Louder perhaps than any vuvuzela in any of our incredible new stadiums. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

P.S. I'm sure you'd like to know which farms are interested? Yes? Well I can do better. Go to their website (www.wosa.co.za) and check out the digital version of the book. It's a pleasure luv. 

Jamie Who favourites

I've deliberately stayed away from two types of stories over the last few weeks/months. One is the "winter specials" story. I swear when I have to read about some of the ridiculous things certain places are offering it makes me wonder how desperate they actually are. Come visit us on the first Monday of the month between 1 and 2 pm, wearing a Bafana Bafana jersey and if you order your pizza in Afrikaans you get your second caraffe of wine free if you pay for your first with a R20 note. Okay, it's not that bad but I have read and heard enough of winter specials. Enough. Every single day the list grows and grows and I personally am completely over it. Fellow food blogger Dax wrote a great piece on specials and their shortfalls and followed it up with a piece on the worthwhile ones. Nicely done. 

The second story I have steered clear of is anything World Cup related. These stories often tied in with restaurant specials and I refused to get sucked in. Until recently. The fever has got me and it's got me bad. The socks are on the Fire Truck mirrors (yes, I just told you the name of my car), the flag is hanging out my office window, I've bought a ridiculously-expensive Bafana jersey, I own a Puma Unity jersey and when I finish this post I'm off to get myself an Ivory Coast top. I am totally over-excited for The World Cup. So...I thought instead of listing specials that different places are offering I would provide a list of my own. A list of Jamie Who favourites for visitors lucky enough to be part of this historic event. These will no doubt spark debate (which I would love by the way) but please guys, let's keep it civilised. Below is a list of my favourites. Things I enjoy. I'm not saying they are the best. I'm saying they are MY best. Please understand the difference. By all means, comment and leave your suggestions. Here we go:

1. Best steak: HQ and Carne. (Go for the hanger cut here. Rare.)

2. Best place to have an artisanal beer: Brewers & Union. (I'm a fan of the Berne.) 

3. Best place to have a glass (or more) of wine: Caveau. (Their Heritage Square branch.) 

4. Best pizza: Carlyle's on Derry Street. (It must be made very clear that this is only because visitors won't have the opportunity to enjoy a pizza from Massimo. We should all agree by now that he is king of the pizza)

5. Best beer on tap: Jack Black

6. Best place to enjoy Jack Black on tap: Harvey's Bar at Winchester Mansions and Twankey Bar at the Taj Hotel. 

7. Best bakery: Ile de Pain in Knysna and Jardine Bakery in Bree Street

8. Best restaurant on a wine farm (if you're looking for fine-dining): Overture on Hidden Valley

9. Best restaurant on a wine farm (if you're looking for something rustic): Bread and Wine on Moreson

10. Best place to have a cocktail (if you want a view): Salt at the Ambassador hotel. 

11. Best place to have a cocktail (if you just want a bloody good cocktail): Martini bar at the Cellars Hohenoort and Asoka. 

12. Best food market (for a vibe): The Neigbourgoods market in Woodstock

13. Best food market (for the produce): The Wild Oats Farmers' market in Sedgefield or The Slow Food Market in Stellenbosch. 

14. Best burger: Loading Bay (when they have burger nights). Otherwise Caprice. 

15. Best breakfast spot: Bistro Sixteen82

16. Best sandwich: The Kitchen in Woodstock

17. Best overall lunchtime restaurant: Superette in Woodstock

18. Best healthy food: Osumo (chicken fajita wrap is what you want here. Trust me)

19. Best coffee: (...............) I can't drink coffee so it's up to you to judge by the comments. 

20. Best food memorabilia shop: The Chef's Warehouse 

21. Best curry: Firefly in Knysna 

22. Best value-for-money restaurant: La Boheme 

And now, the big dogs. Let's get a slow clap going....

23. Best restaurant in Cape Town: Bizerca Bistro

24. Best restaurant in South Africa: Zachary's in Knysna

A special mention must go out to Cheyne's in Bree Street. He does private functions in the evenings and the feast he cooked for The Queen's surprise dinner still rates as one of the best I have had.  

There you have it. My favourites. A guide to places I would recommend to anyone visiting Cape Town and/or the Garden Route. If you think of any categories I may have forgotten let me know. We'll chat. Also, I didn't include links to the places I've mentioned.  If you want contact details for any of them please drop me a mail at jamiewhoblog@gmail.com 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

The 2010 Stellenbosch Wine Festival - Really, honestly, why wouldn't you?

There's almost too much going on during the World Cup. Don't get me wrong, I love the hype and I'm incredibly proud of the beautiful country that we get to show off. I just think restaurants/hotels/bars etc. are putting too much hope in the whole thing. People have invested loads of time and money in some cases and personally I'm not sure they're going to be able to get back the returns they had in mind. I think World Cup Fever has blinded them a bit and their excitement has clouded judgement. Having said all of that, some guys have got it right and introduced spectacular ways to showcase the incredible things we have to offer as a country. The 2010 Stellenbosch Wine Festival is a good example of this. 

From the 1st to the 5th of July, visitors are invited to experience the festival in a slightly different format. This year the plan is to offer a decentralised experience, where guests are transported by shuttle buses to participating wineries. All you need to do is rock up at one of the Park-and-rides, buy a pass and off you go. That's how they're rolling this year. Sounds awesome to me. 

Various activities will be offered by the participating farms, including winemaking workshops, tastings, live music, game drives, football on big screens, food-pairings and interactive meals at some of the farm's restaurants. Idiom Wines are even hosting a 5-a-side football tournament. For the less enthusiastic - or those looking to do more drinking and less running - there is a Boules court (yes there is such a thing as a Boules court) too. For those not in the know, Boules is that game where you chuck the little wooden ball and then the heavy silver balls to try and get them as close to it as possible. It's chilled and can DEFINITELY be done while drinking. 

With participating farms including Delheim, Jordan, Villiera, Waterkloof and L'Avenir (pictured) this event promises to be an absolute corker. Trust me. Have I ever let you down? Tickets will set you back R150 for the day or R500 for the duration of the festival. Do it. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who  

Christophe's - I'm tipping it for big things

The last time I visited Stellenbosch I wrote about how disillusioned I was with all the franchise food stores. (Vida, Melissa's etc.) I eventually stumbled across Nook which restored a bit of faith in my belief that there were some good, rustic eateries in the town. A further visit revealed Cafe Dijon, which definitely raised the culinary stakes. But my most recent visit took things to another level, and I haven't enjoyed a restaurant as much in a long time. 

Christophe's is the latest venture for chef Christophe Dehosse, who previously worked at Au Jardin at The Vineyard Hotel. That was a few years back and in between now and then he founded and set up Joostenberg Bistro, which built up a great reputation as home of all things pig. He has now moved on and left that in the hands of his wife Susan. His new place is a bit more serious but remains unpretentious, with the decor being a mixture of soft, pastel walls and a collection of varied artwork (for sale.) White linen tables and imported cutlery let you know you are in the hands of someone who cares, as does the highly-professional and well-informed waiter/manager. 

The menu is reassuringly short (indicating a chef who focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients) and lists five starters, five mains and a handful of desserts. The wine list was also a great collection and listed quite a few nearby, boutique farms. There was - understandably - a strong Joostenberg presence.  

I tried "pan-fried quail salad" to start, which was served as quail with a side salad. A simple dressing of blanched, cubed and deseeded tomatoes and chives brought the dish together with the help of some sauteed porcini mushrooms. The Queen's starter of a cape salmon tartare was one of the finest starters I can remember having. Anywhere. I have never seen this fish served as a tartare but the texture worked amazingly well and I am surprised more chefs aren't trying it. (Upon reflection, I think it worked even better than Bizerca Bistro's yellowtail version, which I have enjoyed often.) Just the right amount of acidity came through from a fantastic dressing, and it was cleverly garnished with onion sprouts that added flavour, not just "prettiness" to the dish. Mains were a bouillabaisse for me (rich, deep flavours with prawns, a beautiful plump scallop, calamari and both cape salmon and Kabeljou) and a pan-fried Kobeljou, served on lentils with a mustard dressing, for The Queen. (Both dishes worked outstandingly with a bottle of Miles Mossop Saskia by the way...if you feel like a treat.) Desserts presented the only stumbling block in the form of a gooseberry creme brulee, which was far too sweet and over-caramelised i.e. burnt. That said, the chocolate fondant was sublime. Moist. Rich. Gooey. Decadent. Brilliant. 

If ever you are in Stellenbosh (and in fact even if you're not) make a plan to find time to eat here. It's a great find. Find it at 44 Ryneveld Street, or call them on (021) 886-8763 . 

Cheers,

Jamie Who 

P.S. Special mention must be made of the crockery, which I absolutely loved. They are quirky, vintage pieces and they make eating such high-end food seem totally unpretentious. A very clever touch. 

Free-range Fridays at Catharina's

You would've noticed my not-so-subtle "preachings" about free-range meat lately. It's a lifestyle choice I've made and it has been tough. No more Wimpy burgers on road-trips. No more bacon thrown liberally onto pasta and pizza. No more boerewors rolls on the side of rugby fields. No more Nando's when you're hammered or hungover. I've had to sacrifice certain dishes I used to love at restaurants and choose vegetarian options instead. Shopping at markets instead of grocery stores has taken on a whole new level of importance for me. Basically, free-range meat is a big deal. It's a huge deal. So when I heard of Catharina's Free-range Fridays concept, it was something I absolutely had to check out. 

I was invited to a lunch to showcase the type of dishes the restaurant will be featuring on the menu, where chef Garth Almazan (surely one of the most underrated in Cape Town) talked a group of us through the philosophy. Not surprisingly, it all starts with the supplier and Garth explained the care that goes into sourcing the finest animals from the best farms. From there, Garth has borrowed from the "nose to tail" eating trend which, as the name suggests, focuses on using every part of the animal (or as much as possible). This brings me to my next point: offal. Offal has never really been given a chance here in South Africa, mainly because I feel people have no relationship with the animals they eat as meat. So the idea of eating livers, kidneys, sweetbreads etc. makes the average person squeamish. I guarantee that if people ate it in a blind-tasting they would love it. 

Anyway, onto the lunch. We enjoyed roasted bone marrow with a quinoa stuffing. Braised beef tripe with pan-fried sweetbreads and a bean ragout. Pan-fried calves liver with oxtail rillette. Pork belly with trotter spring rolls. All paired with gorgeous wine. Think Herold Pinot Noir, Steenberg Nebbiolo, Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal (all from 07). The most unusual - and my favourite - was the Jordan Riesling teamed up with the pork belly. Cathy Marston (wine guru over at food24.com) was there and her explanations of the wine were fascinating. For example, I had never noticed the strong minty/Eucalyptus character of Steenberg wines which she pointed out. Watch out for it next time you have the chance. 

The food was sensational. Honestly, some of the richest, deepest dishes I have enjoyed for a long time. The rain outside made it a perfect day to get stuck into such earthy flavours and the afternoon flew by. Bianca Coleman made an excellent drinking partner and I was quite bummed when I checked my watch and realised I had to get out of there. Next time - and there will definitely be a next time - I will make sure I stay longer, drink more and then roll down the road to my parents' house. (Yip, they have a place there - very convenient.) I'll probably wake up, go for a trail run on the Silvermine Reserve and enjoy brunch at Bistro Sixteen82. Because that's how we do it in Cape Town. 

To find out more about the Free-range Friday movement, give Catharina's a call on (021) 713-2222. Do your bit. Do your bit and enjoy an unbelievable meal. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Bistro sixteen82 - Breakfast this time. And another tick.

Remember when I wrote that article about the fabulous new Bistro Sixteen82? (If you don't, then shame on you). Well, I was there again last week for breakfast and enjoyed it so much I just had to tell you all about it. 

You will remember how much I enjoyed my first trip (if not just bear in mind that I'm a straight man who used the word "fabulous"  in his opening paragraph) and this time round was no exception. The venue screams out leisurely breakfast but would make a perfect option for a business breakfast too I reckon. The menu might seem pretty standard at first but when you look closer it becomes pretty apparent that you are about to enjoy something special. One of the items is bacon and eggs. Cool, I dig bacon. And eggs. But look closer and you'll see the "bacon" is actually smoked pork belly - a feature which runs throughout the menu. The pork is smoked and cured on site by chef Brad Ball and is a creative and delicious touch. Other details that are worth mentioning are the complimentary honeyed brioche that appears at every table upon arrival and the unusual potato bread that is served with quite a few of the dishes. 

I had scrambled eggs with smoked salmon (R58). Brad claims he spent years learning the art of scrambled eggs and I have to admit mine were sensational. The dill hollandaise it was served with was good but I felt maybe it could've done with a touch more vinegar. The rest of the menu is made up of eggs benedict (yip, with smoked pork belly. R55), poached eggs with smoked trout and hollandaise sauce (R58), an omelette with asparagus, basil and cherry tomatoes (R55), berries, yoghurt and toasted almonds (R49) and fresh summer mushrooms (R50). I tasted some of the mushrooms and they were a brilliant combination of shitake, portabello and king oysters. Did I mention they were drizzled with the faintest hint of truffle oil? Yeah, well...

I figured it wouldn't be right not to have little glass of bub so I washed it all down with some of Steenberg's 1682 Chardonnay Brut. Because I'm like that. 

This place has thrown its hat quite definitely into the ring for "best breakfast spots in cape Town" in my book. You should keep them in mind next time you're looking. 

Call them on (021) 713-2211.

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Constantia Fresh Festival

There are some things that go hand in hand in the food world. Always have. Always will. Bacon and eggs. Fish and chips. Tequila and regret....

Seriously though, for me, food relationships are a bit more complex than that. It's the feeling you get when you're eating/drinking and the surroundings you're doing it in. So yes, fish and chips go well together but it's more about the memories you had as a kid eating them on the rocks at the beach. When I sit down and eat roast chicken I don't only taste the chicken, I taste the memory of how my Mom always makes it. The difference is subtle, but hugely important. (Was that all a bit arty? My apologies.)

One of these food relationships is that between summer and Sauvignon Blanc. Nothing says hello summer like a chilled glass of a beautiful, crisp SB. (I will be calling it SB from now on. Deal with it). The joy of this wine is that I have mostly enjoyed it outdoors. It somehow tastes better that way. So you can imagine I was pretty stoked to hear about the Constantia Fresh Wine Festival which is taking place on the 26th and 27th of Feb. The festival showcases SB in all its glory and participating farms include Constantia Uitsig, Klein Constantia, Groot Constantia, Steenberg, Eagle’s Nest and Buitenverwachting. A huge drawcard for me is the pairing of the wines with canapes prepared by some of our most talented chefs. Look out for Peter Tempelhoff of Cellars-Hohenort, Bertus Basson of Overture, Garth Almazan of Catharina’s at Steenberg, Roland Gorgosilich of Bosman’s at Grande Roche Hotel and Edgar Osojnik of Buitenverwachting.

Tickets for the Friday are R1500 (yeah, that is bloody steep I know) but there are several international farms on display. Personally, I'm going to hit it up on the Saturday where tickets will sting you R400. If you are interested call Jorg on 072 467 5943. Tell him Jamie Who said you should call. He'll give you the tickets for free. Just kidding. I've never met Jorg. 

The festival's strapline is "For the love of Sauvignon Blanc." Me? I'm doing it for the love of summer. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Bread & Wine - Should be called Bread, Meat & Wine

Bread & Wine restaurant on Moreson Wine Estate is a little misleading as a name. Because (as I was forced to do as a result of AlcoFreeFeb) if you take wine out of the equation there is a whole lot more than just bread on offer. Let me explain...

On Saturday I found myself at The Blessing of The Harvest Festival at Moreson. Basically, the whole day is centered around good food and wine and besides making our own, people were drinking quite a bit of the stuff. I was sitting at a table with Clayton, their winemaker, and he was chatting about the wines on offer and their plans for the future. It was a beautiful day and the script was written to get stuck into some quality wine. Knowing I wasn't allowed to booze I was holding firmly onto the fact that I knew the food would be good. I was not disappointed. 

They set up one of the most impressive buffets I have ever seen. I asked for a menu so I could tell you everything we were served but I proceeded to lose that somewhere between Franschhoek and Cape Town so you'll just have to take my word for it! The style of food was a great reflection of what they serve at Bread & Wine though: chilled spinach and ricotta soup, chickpea and roasted pepper salad, rare roast beef, smoked ham, corn tart with pancetta, watermelon, feta and pumpkin seed salad etc. The highlight had to be the duck board with four different versions of the animal. 

Neil Jewell is a known genius when it comes to meat (his charcuterie board is legendary) and he took me into their coldroom to show me dozens of salamis, hams, chorizos and more. He got SO excited talking about meat and the experiments he is busy working on (including a Guinness sausage!) The passion and pride he has for his craft was inspirational to see, and was also infectious. I never expected to get sucked into his weird world of meats but there I was rubbing a paprika chorizo like it was a labrador puppy. I felt a bit embarrassed when I eventually snapped out of my trance and headed back to civilisation. 

On a day-to-day-basis the restaurant offers gourmet food but served in a rustic setting. The standard of produce is uncompromising and the menu is innovative. If I had to have one criticism (and it's not their fault) I would say the venue lends itself too much to summer (their tables are mostly outside in a beautiful courtyard.) An idea would be to do a bit more to improve the vibe inside which is insipid and a bit dull.

Tina Jewell is responsible for putting the "Bread" into Bread & Wine and her ridiculously good freshly baked varieties are some of the best I've had. Ever. I have been on a bread-making course she runs and if ever you feel like something a bit different you should check it out.  

There are dozens of phenomenal places to eat in the winelands but if you feel like a chilled glass of quality wine (Clayton won young winemaker of the year for his Premium Chardonnay so that's the one you want) and a relaxed lunch this is your spot. Just pick a good day. 

Call them on (021) 876-3692

Cheers,

Jamie Who

2010 Moreson Blessing of The Harvest Festival

Normally when I say to people "I'm planning on spending the day knee-deep in wine" it means...well it means I'm going to be drinking a lot of wine. On Saturday though I'M GOING TO BE SPENDING THE DAY KNEE-DEEP IN WINE. You see, I'm going to be making my own. It's all part of the 2010 Moreson Blessing of the Harvest festival. 

For R300 you get to pick grapes from their vineyards, climb in a barrel and create your own wine. Then you enjoy lunch at the awesome Bread & Wine run by Neil Jewell (I don't care how full I am, I will have a charcuterie board even if I have to blend it up and inject it into my veins). There's also a label-designing competition which I am looking to The Queen to win. She is a graphic designer after all. (Did you like that little insight into my life. Hey? How close have we grown lately? It's wonderful.) She better win, If not, she's walking back to our hotel. Joooookes man, relax. I'll give her a bike. 

Seriously though, it promises to be a good day out. Wine and food. It's that simple. 

For more check out their site (here) or call Tina on (021) 876-3055. The event also runs on Sunday but don't forget The CapeTown10's  rugby is on in Greenpoint. Bloody hell I love Cape Town. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

The River Cafe - Somebody got a facelift

Complacent. That's how I would describe the attitude of the Constantia Uitsig River Cafe. Until recently that is. You see, in the past there were always three types of people who flocked to The River Cafe: 

1. Tourists
2. Old people
3. Soccer moms looking for a few glasses of vino in between errands

So the restaurant seemed happy serving average food that was overpriced. Why not? People kept coming. That has changed radically now though, with the introduction of Luke Dale-Roberts. Look, when you've won Chef of The Year and your restaurant has won Restaurant of The Year for two years in a row you are pretty hot shit and his impact at The River Cafe is plain to see. The atmosphere is relaxed and less stuffy and the food reflects this. 

I stopped in for a lunch with The Big Dog, Pafoof, Monkey Whisperer and Thirsty and was stoked to see the bistro-styled food. As a table we ordered quite a wide range of things and all of them were brilliant. A tempura-prawn salad came with wonderfully crispy batter and was laced with avocado and tomatoes. My yellowtail came perfectly cooked and was served on fresh, seasonal vegetables with a sauce that seemed to be a variation on the classic Bechamel. The slow-cooked lamb shoulder was packed with garlic and rosemary and fell off the bone - you could've eaten it with a plastic spoon that you get on SAA Economy. But it was The Monkey Whisperer who stole the show with his ribeye burger. Oh. My. Word. I can still smell it. It was delivered on a wooden paddle with chunky, crisp fries and I challenge anyone to find a better version in the country. I know "where can you get the best burger?" is a popular question but you won't be hearing it from me. Because I already know. The answer is The River Cafe. 

The food was decently priced and the service was some of the best I've had anywhere. Friendly, efficient and knowledgeable, even when I asked the waitress if the fish was on the green or orange list. (I knew that already by the way but I just wanted to test her...yeah yeah, I'm a dick. Whatever.) 

I got a really good vibe at The River Cafe. You can see and taste how fresh the produce is. The portions are generous, the mood is laid-back and the setting is stunning. They are open 7 days a week, which in itself is amazing. There was even a wine special on when we were there so we tucked into a few bottles of the estate's Sauvignon Blanc for R50 a bottle. Not bad at all. In fact, if I didn't have a job I would probably still be there. 

Give them a call on (021) 794-3010

Cheers,

Jamie Who

P.S I took a beautiful photo of my fish but it has somehow been deleted by evil Nikon gremlins. So...you'll just have to take my word. Or go there yourself. 

Overture - Straight out of the top drawer

On Saturday I was lucky enough to join Bertus Basson, of Overture fame, for lunch. Now look, I have been quite outspoken in the past about the fact that I don't do comped meals for the simple reason that I want to maintain credibility but this was different. If a chef calls me up and has the decency to put aside some time to talk about food philosophies and plans for the future of course I will listen. And let's be honest...it's Overture people. Come now. I still turn down invitations by restaurateurs, brand managers and PR companies offering free meals in exchange for good reviews but here was an opportunity to conduct an informal interview with someone I admire and respect while at the same time enjoying some of the best food in the country. The moral debate was an extremely short one. 

The first thing I noticed about Bertus (other than the fairly hectic mohawk) was the obvious love for food. When someone talks that passionately about something you listen and what followed for the next three hours was nothing short of fascinating. I didn't have a pen and paper (that's not the vibe I like to kick out on a Saturday) but let me try summarise what came out of our chat: 

Bertus changes his menu the morning of service, according to what arrives at his door. He spends a lot of his time driving around with his wine guy (affectionately referred to as Stretch throughout lunch) tasting wines and figuring out how he can work them into his menu design. He loves Cape Town and believes food will always taste better in areas "where there are vineyards and an ocean." He has a huge amount of respect for other South African chefs and admits that they draw inspiration from each other. He is hugely ambitious and was gutted to finish in 10th place at the Eat Out Awards Dinner (a position most would celebrate). He believes taste is paramount to creating a good dish, "what's the point if something looks pretty but tastes shit?" He loves old-school cooking techniques like braising. He puts a huge emphasis on sourcing ingredients to the point that he actually got excited talking about a particular supplier of shallots. He loves fish, specifically the less common species and thinks it is important for people to be more aware of the green/orange/red grading system. He's not just bound to the restaurant and in fact has a catering company and several other exciting projects (secret unfortunately) in the pipeline. He says there is a time and a place for fancy food and simple food and people need to know that. "I actually dig the Spur hey...". He spends time deliberately breaking down new recruits at the restaurant to see if they have what it takes but has only ever met one member of staff who was untrainable. "I like getting these guys in from the catering schools who think they're hot stuff and making them peel potatoes. That tests them and makes them understand the hierarchy here." 

Look there's a lot more that was said but we did have quite a bit to drink and besides I really should be talking about the venue and the food...

The restaurant itself is on Hidden Valley Wine Estate and is perched high up on a hill looking back over a beautiful valley towards Cape Town. The interior is modern - a combination of earthy stone and wood mixed in with a lot of glass. (Understandable given the ridiculous views.) 

As mentioned, the menu changes daily but will always consist of 10 options for guests to choose from. The dishes range from light starters to heavier options and you have the choice of 3, 4, or 5 course options priced at R250, R300 and R360 respectively. How you put your meal together (in what order I mean) is up to you. With wine pairings the meal jumps out to R300, R380 and R460. An 8-course tasting menu is available for R455 (R755 with wine). 

I was lucky enough to enjoy 8 courses. I could honestly go on for pages and pages about them but I don't want to get into the technicalities of each dish. You'll see by the style of food the level of cooking that is on offer but when I say each dish was at least 8/10 (Most were 9, some were 10) you should understand I don't really need to wank on and on about them. Let's break it down for you:

• Raw salmon, salmon-stuffed courgette flower, cauliflower puree
• Foie gras poached in port with fresh figs, fig sorbet and brioche
• Geelbek and green beans (served in a bouillabaisse sauce made from the bones)
• Crisp pork belly with roasted apple, glazed onions, pomme puree and confit garlic
• Gnocchi with tomato, fried mozzarella and olive tapenade 
• Parmesan spoom with tomato sorbet and balsamic onion 
• Gingered watermelon soup with yoghurt sorbet 
• Chocolate sorbet served with a shot of white and dark chocolate Bottega grappa  

And then the wine. Bloody hell, the wine. What a joke how unbelievable the wine was. We had (in order, matched to the courses) a 2009 Hidden Valley Sauvignon Blanc, a Pierre Jordan Ratfia (Google Ratfia - it's quite interesting), a 2009 Land's end Sauvignon Blanc, the 2006 Hidden Valley red blend (sorry, not too sure about this one but I think it was mainly Cab Sav with a bit of Malbec?), a 2009 Jordan Unoaked Chardonnay, a 2009 Paul Cluver Gewurztraminer, a 2009 Bon Courage Red Muscadel.      

Sho, that's quite a bit of reading to get through. It certainly was not a mission to eat our way through it and we had an awesome time and some good laughs. During the lunch no less than three guests came over to thank him personally with comments like "That was the best lunch I've had" and "Congrats on having the best restaurant in the country." Pretty high praise that was not lost on Bertus who explained that that is what makes all the hard work worthwhile. When walking us out he casually pointed to the beautiful pond at the entrance and explained the plan to introduce trout and tilapia. That's a pretty awesome vibe. Just like everything else at Overture. 

You can give them a call on (021) 880-2721. They are open for lunch from Tuesday through to Sunday and do dinners on Thursdays and Fridays. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

 

iCi - Loving it.

Saturday saw The Queen and I heading through to Franschhoek for The Gym Nazi and The Pilates Pirate's wedding. With the ceremony starting at 5 we decided to cruise through early and have lunch at one of the many amazing restaurants out there. In the car we settled on Reuben's. The brilliant Richard Carstens has joined Reuben (I think on a consultancy basis) and I was keen to see what he has been able to add. Look, we were pretty arrogant thinking we could just arrive and get a table. When we arrived and asked for a table for two the chick did her best not to laugh in our faces and to her credit politely told us the place was full. It was. As a matter of fact it was absolutely humming. Not to be defeated, I suggested taking a flier at Le Quartier Francais, headed up one of my favourite South African chefs, Margot Janse. I thought we had even less of a chance to get in there but surprisingly we got lucky and were seated at iCi (iCi is LQF's daytime restaurant, not to be confused with the more formal Tasting Room which is open for dinners). 

The vibe at iCi is a chilled one but you know you are dealing with quality from the second you walk in the place. Service is polished and the menu itself had several items jumping out at me straight away. I guess I would call it bistro-styled food but with South African ingredients. There are "The nibbles" consisting of things like oysters, ham croquettes, marinated olives and a charcuterie board with baby beetroot. (The meat for the charcuterie comes from sister restaurant Bread & Wine which is on Moreson wine estate. That itself is well worth a visit.) Starters range from chilled sweetcorn soup to mussels with a curry and orange sauce. The mains had courses like wood roasted crayfish, springbok shank lasagne and grilled ribeye sitting proudly alongside spaghetti and lamb meatballs. Something that really tickled me was the wood roasted free range chicken for two with roasted potatoes and salad. (How cool is that? Come on, you know you dig it). A table next to us ordered it and it looked sensational. It even came with a little gravy boat...what's that saying about simple things amusing simple minds? 

Anyway, to eat I had a rabbit and tarragon terrine with an apricot relish (R55). You might know from past postings that I absolutely love rabbit. I had never had it in a pressed terrine before and the combination with the tarragon worked beautifully. For mains The Queen went for a peppered seared tuna with a cold potato salad and cucumber(R60). The potatoes had a hint of lime running through them which lifted the dish and added a phenomenal dimension - light, elegant and summery. Superb. I had a yellowtail which was served on a brandade and braised baby fennel(R125). Brandade is a puree of white fish, olive oil and milk - it is unusual to see (in fact I can't remember seeing it before) but bloody hell it was good. The fish was topped with a salsa verde. Now, I'm going to make a big call here. That dish was the most memorable fish dish I have had for years. The flavours were gutsy and bold and might have been a bit overpowering for some but for me they were unreal. Wow. 

It's also worth mentioning that iCi has an impressive wine list showcasing local wineries. We had a few gasses of Moreson's Miss Molly Chenin Blanc which I had never tried. That too was fantastic. 

All in all, I was really, really impressed. I know LQF gets a lot of attention for The Tasting Room and having been there before I can vouch that it is all well deserved but what I can add is that iCi deserves a lot more hype. It's 45 minutes from Cape Town and well worth the drive. Trust me. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Bistro sixteen82 - Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful

A while ago I wrote about the new restaurant - called Bistro sixteen82 - that was due to open on Steenberg wine estate. Last week I attended the launch and unfortunately had to leave very suddenly due to an emergency. I had to set down my second glass of their 1682 Brut MCC without even taking a sip so you must understand it really was an emergency. Anyway, before I left I did have time for a quick walk through and was extremely impressed with the vibe. The vibe is my sort of vibe. It's your sort of vibe. Hell, it's our sort of vibe. So I thought it was only fair that I cruised in for lunch on Sunday. Just to let you guys know what it was like. As I sat there, sipping a glass of their Sauvignon Blanc and taking in the view I realised how much I do for you guys. 

They have spared no expense with the decor. Harsh materials like glass, steel, aluminium and concrete are contrasted with natural, raw textures like driftwood, stone and timber. There are massive glass doors which fold and stack away to reveal what is surely one of the best settings in the whole of Cape Town. Rim-flow pools, with tables that are actually cut into the water features, really do make for a pretty special place. There is a path that guests can walk on to appreciate different viewpoints of the vineyards. The feature piece of the restaurant though is surely the massive lighting fixture hanging above their main bar. Loads - and I mean LOADS - of individually made glass balls have been painted in the colours to reflect grapes (that's red and green guys) and hang above a stark white bar which stands out beautifully against the dark colours of the rest of the restaurant. This place also has the best bathrooms I've seen in a while. Funky prints of close-up vineyards serve as wallpaper, the finishes are modern and clean and there are fresh, individual hand-towels. Do you guys also judge a place by its bathrooms? You should. 

What's that? Do they serve food? Very funny. Now go make me a smoothie. 

The restaurant is not open for dinners and closes at 8pm. As well as breakfast and lunch they will serve tapas from 5 - 7:30. They look pretty good with things like grilled octopus, whitebait and chorizo featuring. A little taste of Spain coming through nicely. Another cool feature is their Raw Bar where they will be serving...say it with me guys...raw stuff. So expect delicious charcuterie boards, cured salmon, ceviche, tartare, carpaccios, gravadlax, oysters, sashimi etc.

Back to the lunch I had there with The Bear and The Princess. I ordered the seared scallops with asparagus as a starter while the other two shared a duck salad. My starter was light and clean with the plumpest scallops I have eaten for a while. The duck salad was good too, with a nice smokiness. For mains The Bear enjoyed a steak roll and chips. This might sound like pub food, but the bowl of deliciously rich jus that it was served with made it far more advanced than that. The Princess enjoyed her main of mussels in a saffron cream but mentioned the actual amount of meat in the mussels was a bit disappointing. (I told you, she's a bit fussy). My main of beef tataki was incredible but absolutely tiny. Like, teeny tiny. I honestly reckon it should be twice the size to be considered a main. Dressed with ginger, radish, chilli and soy it was brilliantly seasoned but just not enough! We also nailed a bottle of Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc for only R50. Bloody hell. I though they were taking the piss. Luckily I had to get going because if I sat there all day paying cellar prices things could've gone wrong quite quickly...

All things considered Bistro sixteen82 is a show-stopper. Phenomenal views. Spectacular setting. A great menu. A talented chef (Brad Ball, previously of Olympia Cafe and The River Cafe). My only concern is that it becomes too touristy. But hey, if that's the biggest fault I could find with the place it must be a pretty good spot. Look, it helps that I can get hammered and stumble down the road to our house, but I would recommend this to anyone looking to enjoy a long, lazy, boozy lunch.  

Phone them to book a table on (021) 713-2211.

Cheers,

Jamie Who

P.S. How cool is it to write an article, and then tag it Cape Town AND winelands? Hey? Jeez I love this city. 

Cafe Dijon - I'll have some of that

So I was Stellies (you said it was fine if I called it that) the other day doing some work with The Pom. When we were done I was pretty hot - it was 33 degrees that day - and generally a bit pissed off so we thought we would ease into a lunch to calm down. We walked past a place called Cafe Dijon which I remembered a reader recommending. I think his name was Michael. Well, Michael...bravo. You did well. I think I'll call you Mikey from now on. Or M-Tits. Annnnnyway, let's see what all the fuss was about.

As the brighter of you might have already guessed Cafe Dijon is French. I've never been to France but I've eaten French toast and... well...that's basically the same thing. Seriously though, this place is exactly what I would imagine little bistro on a Paris street to look like: leather banquettes, marble-topped bar, black and white vintage prints, a checked mosaic floor, dark wood, chalkboards etc. We sat outside on the pavement which added to the European vibe.

The menu itself celebrates authentic French dishes with things like Sole Meuniere, Coq au Vin and Blanquette de Veau. But the important thing is they do it in a chilled, unpretentious way. We were there for a light unch so I went with the salad of the day which was seared tuna, butter-beans and green beans. It was perfection. Simple, fresh and prepared exactly the way I wanted it. The Pom ordered a baguette stuffed with brie and caramelised onions, which also looked amazing.

Service, you ask? Well...our waiter was surprisingly good for a stoner. The guy definitely knew his food and had just the right amount of personality. I was impressed.

I'm happy with this one guys. Another one to add to Nook in terms of places to eat when in the area. I would have enjoyed a dinner there with a few bottles of wine. Aaah well, next time.

Find them at 35 Plein Street, or call them on (021) 886-7023.

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Nook - There is still some charm in S'Bosch after the franchise invasion

On Saturday morning The Princess, Elvis and I took a drive through to Stellenbosch. We had a meeting out there and when we were done we thought we would enjoy a brunch somewhere. Let me tell you, the place has changed since I was a student there. (Jeez, how old did that make me sound?!!) A quick drive through town and I was left feeling really disappointed. Simply Asia? Cape Town Fish Market? Vida? Melissa's? What the fu*k was going on? Where were the quirky little places that give Stellenbosch its charm? As I drove on they began sprouting up. A tiny little bakery called Sweet. A little deli called Cupcake. Some Cafes with outside seating. And finally a restaurant that seemed to be exactly what I was looking for: Small, tables and chairs on the pavement and a little bit of that "ouma"- style cooking. 

Nook is obviously the new hotspot and was absolutely humming. The atmosphere is relaxed and the decor a mixture of neutral colours, beautiful wooden tables and a collection of bits and pieces. The main feature is a wall with hanging brass cookware and cooking magazines but the whole place is done really well. There is a nice organic feel. 

The menu is simple, rustic food. You will see "homemade" a lot on the menu which always pleases me. The focus is on salads, sandwiches and light meals. And then there are the baked goods. Croissants, sticky buns etc. They are apparently phenomenal but I was not swayed. Instead I ordered two poached eggs. Here is where things got a bit strange. The waitress told me they don't do poached eggs. I was a bit shocked but happily enough ordered  some scrambled eggs, as long as they don't add cream. The waitress came back and apologised, saying they do add cream so was there anything else I would like. I asked if there was any chance they could just not add the cream. Apparently she had not thought of this. Maybe I'm just being a dick but I should not have had to ask, especially after they had told me they wouldn't make the poached eggs. 

Ok, so that was a bit of a rant. How were the eggs you are wondering? Worth the confusion. Presented on ceramic, brightly-coloured plates and served with grilled mushrooms and some fresh rocket. And real rye bread. The Princess had the same but with tomatoes and she seemed happy. Elvis had a bowl of water. He seemed happy. 

I must also mention the owners: Jessica and Luke. They were brilliant and are probably what will make me recommend this place. The personal attention and obvious passion for what they are doing is awesome to see. When next in Stellenbosch, check this place out. 

You can find it at 42 Van Ryneveld Street. Or call them on (021) 887-7703

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Looks like summer got the memo - your wine weekend options

I don't want to be "that guy" who calls it prematurely but I think summer has finally got the memo and arrived in Cape Town. Late, yes, but safely here. Thank you summer. To celebrate I am going to do something remarkably pro-active here and combine no less than FOUR entries into one as I effortlessly show you some different wine festivals taking place over the next few weekends. Let's get into it...

The Season of Sauvignon wine festival actually starts today and runs until Sunday. It is hosted by the Durbanville Wine Valley Association and showcases Shiraz. Not really. It showcases Sauvignon Blanc from the area. With farms like De Grendel, Diemersdal, Bloemendal and Altydgedacht all participating it should be a goodie. Expect sushi, live jazz and beautiful views of Table Mountain. 

Right...moving on. Next Friday sees the Breedekloof Outdoor Festival kick off. The weekend celebrates the area's beautiful natural surroundings and includes quad-biking, paintball, archery, fishing, mountain biking and even the Deetlefs Night Run through their vineyards. (5km and 10km). Food-wise there will be everything from - and I quote from their website - "skaapkop dinner" (umm...no) to oysters (ah thank you) to a spitbraai (maybe, depending on my sobriety at the time). I like the healthy appeal of this festival and let's not forget the quality of wineries out there. (Deetlefs, Lorraine, Jason's Hill etc.)

Okay, as if we needed another reason to go to Franschhoek they too are hosting a festival next weekend (the 10th and the 11th). Theirs is called Franschhoek Uncorked and promises to be a cracker. They have done well to organise a shuttle service to take you from one wine farm to the next and the lineup is...well...silly. Moreson. Boekenhoutskloof. Chamonix. Grande Provence. L'Ormarins. Vrede en Lust. You get the picture. I'm starting to get the picture as I write this actually. Yip, this could be the one. Screw the night run! I'll run back to the B&B! 

Lastly, we have the Robertson Wine on the River weekend. Bloody hell this sounds amazing. From the 16th to the 18th of October a place called Goudmyn Farm is your host. Situated on the banks of the Breede River, the event includes sampling wines from more than 40 wineries. There's a live blues band, country food stalls and a farmer's market selling local olives, cheese, chocolate and olive oil. There's a fu*king river cruise people! COME ON MAN! ARE YOU GETTING THIS? When I go on a booze-cruise I like to use the word meander. Yes...I think I will meander down the Breede. 

Phew, I got a bit carried away there but really...can you blame me? Summer is here and the outdoors are calling. Bring it on, it's been a long winter. 

Cheers,

Jamie Who

P.S. Check out the following sites for more info:

www.eat-in.co.za/static/events/event.php?id=718

www.durbanvillewine.co.za 

www.breedekloof.com

www.franschhoek.org.za/festivals

 

Reuben's at The Robertson - There are worse places to go

Boutique is a word that gets me very excited. Especially when it is followed by the word hotel. Hey?!! How awesome are boutique hotels? They're always a bit quirky, a bit edgy, a little off-the-beaten-track and they are always...and I mean always boasting beauiful interior design. There is a definite trend towards small towns opening up some kick-ass places to stay and areas like Stanford, Greyton, Riebeek Kasteel, Wellington and Langebaan all spring to mind. So, when I heard about the new Robertson Small Hotel in...umm...ROBERTSON, I was more than a bit intrigued. That was before I even knew that Reuben Riffel (of Reuben's in Franschoek fame) was opening a second venue there. The plan is to serve up natural, seasonal produce with an emphasis on organic fare where possible. With a menu boasting items like sweetbreads, wing rib, and chorizo-crusted fish it is safe to say the expectations are high. The restaurant has sourced as much as possible from nearby suppliers - something that already earns massive points in my book. Breakfasts are placed on a pedestal too, so they clearly know how to play to my weaknesses. (Brioche with bacon, pomegranate syrup, clotted cream and rocket sound good to anyone else or is just me?)

The hotel itself has 10 rooms, 2 swimming pools, a stylish bar which I could definitely enjoy a few drinks in and a modern wine cellar. I can think of much worse ways to spend the weekend. To find out more check out their site at http://www.therobertsonsmallhotel.com/

Reuben has been relatively quiet lately in terms of accolades - is this perhaps a return to former glory?

Cheers,

Jamie Who

Bistro Sixteen82 - Steenberg just keeps giving

I love Steenberg. There's something very "pleasantville" about it all. Golf carts everywhere, families going for walks, kids riding bikes, joggers doing their thing, dogs sniffing arses etc. The whole thing just works! I thoroughly enjoy it. And...with our own little slice of heaven on the 13th fairway, I am more than happy to go spend the odd weekend out there, playing golf and just chilling hard.

Besides the amazing vineyards, there is also a GORGEOUS five-star hotel. The clubhouse is a good place to have a beer and watch rugby and their restaurant - Catharina's - is a good display of fine dining. So, generally, I am very happy with Steenberg's vibe. Imagine my excitement then when Long Distance shot through an e-mail saying they were opening a new restaurant. He told me it was going to serve bistro food, which I absolutely love if it is done properly. I investigated a bit more (as I do...for you) and it seems he was right. The menu has 3 price options of R155, R185 or R220 per person and that gets you three courses. The price then obviously determines the complexity of the menu. SAMPLES of the MAIN COURSES for the three categories are: Gnocchi with pancetta, spring peas and parmesan, aged Ribeye with bearnaise sauce and scallops and crawfish with blood orange and fennel.

Set to open on the 13th of November, the restaurant is to be called Bistro Sixteen82. The man in charge is Brad Ball, previously at River Cafe and Olympia Cafe. When I called them, the woman I spoke to explained the food as simple and fresh and according to www.eatout.co.za there will also be a raw bar featuring oysters, sashimi, ceviche etc.

I can see myself there in Summer. Salmon tartar (you can make me one of those, right?) and a glass of Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc. Yes please.

Cheers,

Jamie Who